This is how a typical septic system works:
1.) All water runs out of your house from one main drainage pipe into a septic tank.
2.) The septic tank is a buried, water-tight container usually made of concrete, fiberglass, or polyethylene. Its job is to hold the wastewater long enough to allow solids to settle down to the bottom forming sludge, while the oil and grease floats to the top as scum.
3.) Compartments and a T-shaped outlet prevent the sludge and scum from leaving the tank and traveling into the drainfield area.
4.) The liquid wastewater (effluent) then exits the tank into the drainfield.
5.) The drain field is a shallow, covered, excavation made in unsaturated soil. Pretreated wastewater is discharged through piping onto porous surfaces that allow wastewater to filter though the soil. The soil accepts, treats, and disperses... wastewater as it percolates through the soil, ultimately discharging to groundwater.
6.) If the drainfield is overloaded with too much liquid, it will flood, causing sewage to flow to the ground surface or create backups in toilets and sinks.
7.) Finally, the wastewater percolates into the soil, naturally removing harmful coliform bacteria, viruses and nutrients. Coliform bacteria is a group of bacteria predominantly inhabiting the intestines of humans or other warm-blooded animals. It is an indicator of human fecal contamination.
For more information on how a septic system works, visit the EPA's website HERE.
When Should I Have My Tank Pumped?
The average household septic system should be inspected at least every three years by a septic service professional. Household septic tanks are typically pumped every three to five years. Alternative systems with electrical float switches, pumps, or mechanical components should be inspected more often, generally once a year. A service contract is important since alternative systems have mechanized parts.
Four major factors influence the frequency of septic pumping:
Household size
Total wastewater generated
Volume of solids in wastewater
Septic tank size
Here are some maintenance tips to keep in mind.
When you call us to come out and service your system, we will inspect for leaks and examine the scum and sludge layers in your septic tank.
Keep maintenance records on work performed on your septic system.
Your septic tank includes a T-shaped outlet which prevents sludge and scum from leaving the tank and traveling to the drainfield area. If the bottom of the scum layer is within six inches of the bottom of the outlet, or if the top of the sludge layer is within 12 inches of the outlet, your tank needs to be pumped.
For more information on how a septic system works, visit the EPA's website HERE.
Odor Issues With Septic Systems
Occasionally homeowners complain about odors from their onsite sewage treatment system. Although most people understand that sewage has a particular odor, steps can be taken to limit these odors in the home and yard. Gases from an onsite system that can be a problem include hydrogen sulfide, carbon dioxide and methane. Within a home these gases can be irritating, toxic and explosive. In a yard they are not typically found in high enough concentrations to be dangerous, but are still a nuisance.
There are several locations within an onsite system where odor can be an issue.
1. Odors in the Home.
Septic odors inside the house are both annoying and can be a health problem. Odors in a home are typically an indication of a plumbing problem. A very common problem is the drying out of a trap in a basement floor drain allowing gases from the septic tank to vent back into the home. This can be corrected by making sure all floor drain traps are periodically filled with water. Also, the cleanout access plug inside a drain may be loose and could allow for sewer gas to escape. A plumber or ISTS professional that provides line cleaning could check this out.
A second common problem is the plumbing vent located on the roof. It is necessary to allow the pressure in the drainpipes to equalize as wastewater flows through them. Without this vent, sinks, tubs, and toilets would gurgle, traps dry out and odors come into the home. These plumbing vents can freeze closed during prolonged cold periods or get clogged with leaves or other debris. A warm day or two will thaw out the frozen pipe but leaves will need to be cleaned out. The pipe can be unfroze using a jetter or warm water. Always take special precautions when working on a slippery or steep roof.
A third common plumbing problem is an improperly sealed cover on an ejector sump pump basket in the basement. The cover should be checked and a new seal applied to prevent leaks.
2. Odors near the septic tank.
An occasional weak odor near the septic tank may be quite normal but if there is a particularly strong odor around the septic tank(s) the first step should be to make sure all manholes and risers are securely covered. Typically a concrete lid covers the tank manhole, although other materials such as plastic and metal lids are used. The septic tank manhole can be covered with a maximum of 12” of soil or can come to the surface, while any manhole on a tank with a pump must come to surface to allow for repair or replacement of the pump. The newer plastic lids have a rubber seal which helps keep odors in the tank. They must also be properly secured in place with lag screws or other fasteners. If a concrete lid is leaking odors out of the manhole, weather stripping or other materials can be used to create a temporary seal that will contain odors but still allow for proper maintenance of the tank. This seal will need to replaced after maintenance.
3. Odors near a pretreatment unit.
There is a growing use of pretreatment units in onsite sewage treatment systems. The most common pretreatment devices are aerobic treatment units, constructed wetlands and peat, recirculating, sand and textile filters. If an odor is persistent around one of these pretreatment units a licensed onsite professional trained to maintain the specific type of unit should be called.
4. Odors near the soil treatment area.
If there are strong odors in the soil treatment area (around an in-ground drain field, bed or mound), it can indicate a problem with that part of the system. All inspection pipes should be checked to make sure the pipes are not broken and they are covered. A visual inspection of the entire area should be performed to determine if there are any wet or spongy soil areas indicating that sewage is coming to the surface. If any of these conditions are found, humans and animals can come in contact with it. This is considered an “imminent health threat” and should be corrected immediately.
5. Odors in the Yard.
If the yard in general smells of septic gas, it may be that the plumbing vent pipe (described in # 1 above) on your house or a neighbor’s house needs to be extended to diffuse the odors. Homes located in valleys, forested areas or low areas may not have appropriate wind patterns to carry the odors away from the living areas and the yard. As the wind blows over the house, the air currents that are supposed to carry the gases up and away can instead carry the sewer gas down into the yard. Extending the vent pipe can help diffuse the odors carrying them away from the yard. Carbon filters can also be placed on the top of the vent to help control odor. The filters do need to be changed regularly (every 1 to 5 years) to be effective.
General Maintenance for Septic Systems
Whether you flush it down the toilet, grind it in the garbage disposal, or pour it down the sink, shower, or bath, everything that goes down your drains ends up in your septic system. What goes down the drain affects how well your septic system works.
Your septic system is not a trash can.
An easy rule of thumb: Do not flush anything besides human waste and toilet paper. Never flush:
Cooking grease or oil
Flushable wipes
Photographic solutions
Feminine hygiene products
Condoms
Dental floss
Diapers
Cigarette butts
Coffee grounds
Cat litter
Paper towels
Pharmaceuticals
Household chemicals like gasoline, oil, pesticides, antifreeze, and paint or paint thinners
Think at the sink!
Your septic system contains a collection of living organisms that digest and treat household waste. Pouring toxins down your drain can kill these organisms and harm your septic system. Whether you are at the kitchen sink, bathtub, or utility sink:
● Avoid chemical drain openers for a clogged drain. Instead, use boiling water or a drain snake.
● Never pour cooking oil or grease down the drain.
● Never pour oil-based paints, solvents, or large volumes of toxic cleaners down the drain. Even latex paint waste should be minimized.
● Eliminate or limit the use of a garbage disposal. This will significantly reduce the amount of fats, grease, and solids that enter your septic tank and ultimately clog its drainfield.
Maintain Your Drainfield
Your drainfield—a component of your septic system that removes contaminants from the liquid that emerges from your septic tank—is an important part of your septic system. Here are a few things you should do to maintain it:
● Parking: Never park or drive on your drainfield.
● Planting: Plant trees the appropriate distance from your drainfield to keep roots from growing into your septic system. A septic service professional can advise you of the proper distance, depending on your septic tank and landscape.
● Placing: Keep roof drains, sump pumps, and other rainwater drainage systems away from your drainfield area. Excess water slows down or stops the wastewater treatment process.
Call us today with any questions and
to get a FREE quote
on servicing your Septic System
417-882-6622